Skin Exfoliation Test

CD Formulation provides efficacy testing and evaluation of skin exfoliating products for better product development. In cosmetic formulation design, the efficacy system is the core, and the design of the dosage form, base and additives are all closely related to the efficacy system. Generally, the efficacy system is confirmed first, followed by other systems, and finally experiments and fine-tuning. Our research team can provide corresponding solutions for your project.

Exfoliation Methods for Cosmetics

• Physical Exfoliation

Physical exfoliating ingredients are mainly various kinds of scrub particles, which can be categorized according to the friction medium: sugar particles, salt particles, natural materials and plastic particles, etc. These ingredients are used to exfoliate the skin by rubbing the skin to remove old keratin, and their exfoliating efficacy is mainly related to the size, shape and roughness of the particles.

• Chemical Exfoliation

Chemical exfoliation mainly uses acids and cationic active agents, etc. Commonly used acids include alpha-hydroxy acids (mostly found in fruits such as lemons and apples, commonly known as fruit acids) and beta-hydroxy acids (salicylic acid).

The reason why acid-containing cosmetics can have the effect of exfoliating is that acids are soluble and can dissolve the protein connections between keratin and keratin, making it easier to peel off the keratin, thus improving the occlusion caused by clogged pores, and at the same time metabolizing some of the melanin in the stratum corneum, so that the skin looks fair and delicate.

Skin Exfoliation Efficacy Evaluation

1. Human experiment evaluation of exfoliation efficacy

Human experiment is mainly through the keratin renewal to detect the exfoliating effect.

• Evaluation method of stratum corneum renewal time

The stratum corneum turnover time (SCTT) is a method of evaluating the efficacy of exfoliation by staining the skin with a fluorescent dye and detecting the disappearance of the fluorescent intensity.

• Dermoscopy

Dermoscopic observation is based on surface microscopy to study the effect of the number of epithelial scales on the skin of the exfoliating product, so as to evaluate the exfoliating efficacy of the product.

2. Laboratory evaluation of exfoliating efficacy

Laboratory evaluation methods are mainly used to evaluate the efficacy of exfoliation through the dimension of exfoliation. There are three main methods currently available:

• Shedding protein quantitative method

Protein is the main component of the stratum corneum, due to the shedding of keratinocytes and the number of shed proteins is proportional to the number of shed proteins, so you can use the shedding of protein quantification, to evaluate the product with or without exfoliating efficacy and exfoliating efficacy of the strength of the BCA method for protein quantification.

• Cell counting

Cell counting is used to evaluate the exfoliating efficacy of an exfoliating product by counting the number of exfoliated keratinocytes after use, usually based on isolated skin tissue.

• Histologic observation

Histological observation, also based on isolated skin - tissue embedded sections and H & E staining of areas other than the control group at different points in time are compared to evaluate the exfoliating efficacy of the product.

• Precautions

Subject inclusion and exclusion criteria were used to select qualified subjects, and the left and right faces of the subjects were randomly divided into the test and control sides. The clinical evaluation of the efficacy of the test product was carried out by means of before and after comparisons of the subjects' own or between-groups comparisons of the corresponding parameters of their faces by means of researcher assessment and image acquisition.